Not quite as tragic as the Great Fire of 1871 or the loss of Marshall Field's department stores was the closing of Berghoff's restaurant in downtown Chicago two years ago.

Founded in 1898 by one of the many German immigrant families who made the city a sausage and beer town, Berghoff's was a homey restaurant and bar in the busy Loop where waiters, while gruff, would promise to "take goot care uff you."

Field's is still no more, but the restaurant/bar has reopened. In the short time it was closed, a commemorative history and cookbook, "The Berghoff Family Cookbook," was produced for those in mourning.

A collection of old-time and newer favorites, the cookbook lovingly reviews the downtown institution's history and is a must for any Chicago lover.

Its entries range from classics such as bistro-style lamb shank (on the menu since 1914) and all-time best-selling wiener schnitzel to newer entries such as white chocolate mousse and black olive tapenade with walnuts.

Warning: Its unusual variety reflects the changing tastes of customers and may not appeal to cooks seeking a single theme in a cookbook.

We opted for traditional entries and found two of three to be excellent.

The Apple Strudel, made with Granny Smith apples, apple juice, raisins, pecans, butter, bread crumbs and phyllo dough, emerged from the oven moist and not too sweet, just crying for a scoop of vanilla ice cream to melt down its sides. We wish we'd substituted cake crumbs for the bread crumbs as suggested but didn't have any on hand.

Easy to make, the Berghoff Beer Bread was the true winner in our tests. Made with all-purpose and whole wheat flour, rapid-rise or bread machine yeast, salt, brown sugar, beer and canola oil, it baked to perfection over several trials -- each with a different beer that gave it a unique flavor for eating alone or making sandwiches.

Use pilsner or lager for a milder flavor or darker brews for a heartier bread.

Sad to say, the Berghoff Bourbon Short Ribs turned out dry and surprisingly bland, given that the sauce included 2½ cups of bourbon, 1½ cups of barbecue sauce and 6 cups of beef stock for 6 pounds of boneless beef short ribs.

We must confess, however, that we were forced to use a package of meat that while labeled "short ribs" of a sort, had some strange cuts that may have been too lean for the recipe.